Transit Oriented Travel
My Record of Riding the Rails of the Northeast
To paraphrase Ludacris, I’ve got [bros] in different area-codes. That is to say, many of my close friends and family have spread out across the country. I’ve been lucky to stay in close touch with many of them, but this poses a challenge; it is difficult to set enough time aside to visit people one at a time. But what if I could visit many friends in one fell swoop, one simple swing around a circle?
My love and fascination with train travel led me to explore how to conduct such a trip. Inspired by Jim Cameron’s piece on “Transit-Oriented Recreation”, I set to work trying to figure out how I could conceivably visit multiple friends throughout the Northeast almost exclusively using public transportation. To my surprise it was not only possible but highly affordable!
I decided to use a free weekend to explore the opportunity: how many friends and locations throughout New England could I visit utilizing train travel? If you’re not interested in reading my ramblings, watch my video documenting the experience here!
Despite its flaws, the Northeast is relatively well-served by regional rail compared to much of the country. I was able to plot out a route through the states of Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts. Across these states are various regional rail services, as well as Amtrak services. My itinerary was as follows:
Day One
Take Metro-North’s New Haven Line between my home in Norwalk, Connecticut to New Haven.
From New Haven take CTRail’s Shoreline East commuter rail to New London, Connecticut.
From New London hop on Amtrak’s Northeast Regional line across Rhode Island, stopping off at the fascinatingly utilitarian Route 128 station.
Day Two
From the southern suburbs ride MBTA’s Providence/Stoughton Line into Boston proper
Day Three
While under normal circumstances Amtrak’s Lakeshore Limited Line would run between Boston and Springfield, the train is out of service for the time being. Instead I can take a connecting bus.
From Springfield, take Amtrak’s Hartford service to, well, Hartford. From there step off and ride CTRail’s Hartford line south into New Haven once more. From there it’s a simple matter of taking the New Haven Line once again to my apartment in Norwalk!
Day One route is in red, Day Two green, Day Three yellow.
Goals and Logistics
I had a few goals for this trip. The first was to simply enjoy spending time with my friends and family scattered across the Northeast. The value of this quality time cannot be overemphasized. No one lays on their deathbed wishing they had spent more time in the office, but instead that they spent more time with loved ones. My second goal was to rank the experience of each of the rail lines I rode in a Tier-list. The lines were judged on timeliness, accessibility, and quality of experience. Trains that were late, hard to get to, dirty, with bad views, are ranked in low tiers, while opposite experiences are ranked higher. You can see the final Tier-list at the bottom of the article if you want to see the rankings without reading!
The overarching goal of this adventure was to demonstrate to readers (and myself) how train travel can be not only a means of getting to-and-from work, but also a means of exploring new regions of the world; travel for its own sake! By documenting my experiences on this trip, I hope that readers will be encouraged to explore the possibilities of transit oriented recreation, and what’s more, advocate for an expansion of the kind of regional rail projects that would facilitate affordable and accessible rail transportation.
The first thing I had to do was buy my tickets ahead of time, at least for the Amtrak. Unfortunately, when I first started budgeting out my trip, tickets on the Amtrak from New London to Route 128 were $30 - no problem! But I delayed purchasing until I confirmed with friends that I would be able to spend the night at their place, and when I went to purchase the next day the costs went up to $70! Dynamic pricing is good because it prevents shortages, but I can’t say it’s fun to have your fare doubled within 24 hours. Amtrak’s pricing is also a source of irritation for my cousin in Boston, as he told me when I arrived, but thankfully the connecting bus between Boston and Springfield was very cheap! Only $16! And my Amtrak ticket between Springfield and Hartford was shockingly low - $10!
For the commuter rail services, I had to download ticket purchasing apps to my phone but they were relatively simple to use. Including all of the tickets on the various commuter rail apps and the Amtrak Tickets, the total transportation costs involved came to $102. With all that logistical stuff out of the way, let’s jump into the travelog!
Day One: Norwalk, New Haven, New London and Route 128
I started off at my apartment in Norwalk. I said goodbye to my wife and cat and walked to my nearby Metro-North stop, the East Norwalk station. Right from the jump, there were your bog-standard public transit issues: as I walked to the platform, a parking lot attendant asked if I was going towards New Haven (I was) and told me I had to switch to the other side of the platform, as the New Haven and New York-bound trains switched tracks that day due to construction or something. I had to haul ass to get across the street and onto the platform, but made my train at 9:15! It was 2-3 minutes late.
From there, I enjoyed my ride to New Haven, taking in the views of lower Fairfield county. Nice views of the shore and wetlands, as well as a view of Bridgeport, Connecticut’s largest city and my home for several years. Bridgeport holds a special place in my heart, and it does make me happy to see that there have been positive changes for the much maligned city. Beautiful murals, the new Hartford Healthcare Amphitheater, and the rotting old power plant will (hopefully) soon be demolished. I hope the city’s revitalization into a nexus of commerce and culture continues without unnecessary stumbling blocks.
Around the Stratford stop, I noticed that the conductor and a woman sitting in front of me began chatting like old friends; clearly they knew each other and were familiar faces on the railroad. I asked if I could get a picture of them. My friend Karen Christensen and I have discussed how public transit can function as a 'third space', and this moment was a great example. I just loved how people could become friends on the train! Unfortunately I did not catch their names, but the woman was from China. I spoke enviously of China’s high speed rail infrastructure, and she agreed that it was affordable and convenient for Chinese travelers. I almost felt embarrassed for her to be on the Metro-North!
The Metro North New Haven line was relatively clean and airy. There were pretty good views, and aside from the minor changeup at my local station and a short delay, it was largely on time and reliable. I’ll put it in A-tier.
Arriving in New Haven, I enjoyed walking through Union Station. The station was bright and relatively well-maintained, though it certainly is showing its age. There were many benches on which to sit and a few food options for those waiting for their train on one of the many lines that serviced. The only issue with Union Station is that it is not especially walkable to the downtown of New Haven. It took 10-15 minutes of walking by overpasses and empty lots to reach the heart of the city. That’s not ideal for anyone, especially those who have mobility issues.
Downtown New Haven, like Bridgeport, has a lot of potential. Good bones, and I feel like New Haven has enough cultural cache and physical distance between itself and New York City to stand as its own thing; something unique to Connecticut, a small state often forgotten in the noise between its iconic neighbors. Walking around the downtown and the New Haven Green at midmorning on a weekday, I was disappointed to see little activity. A few people on the Green appeared to be unhoused, and there were no businessmen taking lunch, mothers pushing strollers, or old ladies feeding birds. Obviously public spaces are open to all members of the public, and economic status should not be a barrier to access, but I think the best public spaces are those that are enjoyed by a wide cross section of society.
From the green I walked another 10 minutes or so to Yale’s Peabody Museum of Natural History. As a former dinosaur kid, I loved going to the museum with my parents, and as a current dinosaur man, I thoroughly enjoyed strolling through the museum’s refurbished halls, upgraded in 2024. Fossils, gems, and Egyptian artifacts, as well as dioramas of North American wildlife, will delight visitors and intrigue curious minds. I cannot recommend the museum enough.
Leaving the museum, I was happy to see that New Haven’s infrastructure facilitates walkability and bikeability. As I walked to my chosen lunch spot, my Google Maps directions took me on a non-automobile walking path between apartments and offices. Neat!
As a huge fan of South Asian cuisine, I had to visit Hot Murga for an Indian fusion lunch. I had a phenomenal Chicken Tikka Sandwich and fries. I recommend anyone in the New Haven area give it a try!
At this point I had some time to kill, and this is when the distance between downtown and the train station became an issue. Since the walk back to Union Station from Hot Murga was about 30 minutes, I decided to just hang out at the station for some time before my next train, instead of trying to find something else to do. At the station I got a postcard and a soda and read my book, Communion by Whitley Strieber. Here I have to out myself as an alien and paranormal enthusiast, and Strieber’s account of his abduction was opened many times throughout my journey as I passed the time.
After about half an hour of reading my book, I left the station’s main atrium and walked back to the platform to board the next train: CTRail’s Shoreline East. Shoreline East’s trains were of an older rolling stock (Bombardier Shoreliner instead of the more modern Kawasaki M8 used on the New Haven Line) and as a result did not have charging outlets. Still, one area in which they are better then the M8’s is that there are table seating options and cupholders. The cars were clean and well-maintained, and the views were just spectacular. Connecticut’s coast is nothing to scoff at, it is the most underrated shoreline in New England. The trains were timely, the new stations along the route looked modern, so I have to give Shoreline East an S-tier rating. It was that good!
I arrived in New London around 3:30 PM. New London is a gorgeous little city, with an extremely walkable downtown area adjacent to the train station. There I met my old college buddy Lee, and we walked to a restaurant for a meal and a beer. I ordered a Connecticut-style lobster roll, with a toasted bun and hot butter. No disrespect to the Maine lobster roll (cold mayo and lobster meat) but the Connecticut style is clearly better; it’s like comparing Godfather and Godfather Part II, both are fantastic, but one is better by a hair. Lee and I caught up, discussed new developments in our lives, and had a conversation with a man named Greg at an adjacent table. The goal of this project was to discover how train travel can open you to new social opportunities, and that certainly occurred during our conversation with Greg!
Here is where Amtrak has to receive a rebuke from me. As we dined, I received a text alert: My Amtrak train to Route 128 would be delayed 15 minutes. No big deal, we thought, and ordered another drink. Then I got another alert, the delay would be another 15 minutes. Ok - we closed our tab and thought maybe it was a good idea to walk back to the station. But wait! I got another alert, another 15 minute delay. Lee and I wondered if it made sense to stop at a brewery, who knows if the train will even show up at this point? This third delay was the final one however, and we quickly walked back to the station, where I boarded Amtrak’s Northeast Regional train with not a minute to spare.
Delays happen, and while it was nice to be informed minute-by-minute, the three delays in succession made it hard for me to plan out what my next move would be. While the views along the Northeast Regional were pretty good along the coast, as we got into central Rhode Island and suburban Massachusetts they declined in quality. The cafe car was closed for a few minutes, but I got another beer there once it reopened. The seats on the train were very comfortable. Overall, the Northeast Regional will get a C tier from me. Those delays really just made the experience less than ideal.
I arrived at the Route 128 Station about 40 minutes behind schedule, but thankfully my friend Colby, who lives nearby with his wife Frannie, was flexible. I find the Route 128 Station fascinating, in a “hole at the bottom of the ocean” sort of way. The station started as a simple park-and-ride on the side of a highway, an opportunity for suburban commuters to park their cars before riding the train directly to Boston or Providence for work. In recent years, however, it has attracted a great deal of transit-oriented development. Sidewalks make the station accessible to restaurants, shops and apartments by walking. To me, this is a model of how train travel and zoning are a two-pronged solution to America’s housing and environmental issues: just make it easier to build more stuff by train stations so people don’t have to drive everywhere.
Colby drove us back to his house in nearby Easton, where we met his wife and my wife, who I convinced to come meet us there! Frannie and Emma are old friends from college, and each others’ maids of honor. Emma drove up in our car from home so we could all spend some time together. We all had a nice meal and talked into the night. The next morning we woke up, got a delicious breakfast at a nearby farm-to-table restaurant called The Farmer’s Daughter and went for a nice walk at a nearby park.
Day Two: Sharon to Boston
But it was time to get on the (rail)road again! Emma drove me to the MBTA Commuter Line stop at Sharon, and there I waited to take the train into Boston. The train was 15 minutes late, and there was no indication it would arrive from any sign or announcement at the station. The delay was announced on one of MBTA’s apps (MBTAGo) which is different than the app on which you purchase your tickets (mTicket), so I was not aware of it. Dear MBTA: Don’t make your riders download two apps! Let us know if there are delays on the app we use to buy our tickets!
The train did arrive, and I have to say that I like the MBTA cars. Spacious double-deckers with a variety of seating options, but with one major drawback: the only charging ports available are in the lobby area, and not directly next to any seats. But I do appreciate the variety of seating options, including single-seats. It’s sometimes nice to know you won’t have any unexpected companions along your ride.
The views along the route into Boston (this being MBTA’s Providence/Stoughton line) were mediocre. Nothing in particular to write home about; fields, forests, a few small developments and towns, but a gradual increase in density until you arrive in Boston itself. The Providence/Stoughton Line is B-tier for these reasons.
I arrived at South Station in Boston. My friend John lives in the Beacon Hill neighborhood, so I walked through the wide, busy station to find the Red Line Subway. I feel like the commuter rail lines into Boston are referred to as “MBTA” and the subways within the city are referred to as simply “the T.” I hope a native Massachusettsan can clarify that for me
As a Civil War enthusiast, I had to visit the Robert Gould Shaw Memorial on the Boston Common.
I took the Red Line two stops to Park Street. Because my trip on the subway was so short, I won’t be including it in my tier list, but I thought that the system’s turnstiles and pay system were well-designed, and the stations and cars were clean and orderly.
I walked out of the Park Street Station onto Boston Common. It was a beautiful sunny day, and it felt like the whole city was out in it. Children swam in the pool, protestors were out making their voices heard, young professionals and students strolled, buskers strummed guitars. Compared to New Haven’s Green, it was a model of how shared public spaces should make all feel welcome, and be used by everyone.
I walked the pretty streets to my friend John’s apartment. From there, we walked to a local Tavern called The Hill, and we met our friend Sam and his wife Merrill for lunch. Sam, John and I went to the same high school, and it was great to catch up with all of them. Merrill and Sam had just married last year, as did my own wife and I, so we were able to chat a little about our early insights into married life.
John had to return home to address some work issues, so I went to a restaurant I had booked for dinner. I was joined there by my cousin Ty, who moved to Boston almost a year ago. We discussed his job, what his life was like in Boston, and upcoming family events. It was a shame John couldn’t join us for dinner, because it was one he recommended: Jiang Nan, an elevated Chinese dining experience. The waitstaff even had microphones under their shirts to communicate with one another quickly; truly state-of-the-art. The food was very good, though I have to admit, in my book there’s nothing better than Chinatown Shelton.
After dinner Ty and I took an uber to Teddy’s, John’s favorite dive bar near his apartment. John joined us, and we had a few drinks. Ty left, and John and I took an uber to Cambridge, the sight of John’s favorite comedy club. In an intimate setting we watched a comedians tell jokes, but we came halfway through the start of the night’s lineup, so we weren't there long. Afterwards we wandered around Cambridge for a little before returning to Teddy’s. John and I went to college together, and in a little throwback to our youth I have to admit we tied one on, so to speak. After spending too much money dominating the bar’s jukebox, we staggered back to his apartment for the evening.
Day Three: Boston, Springfield, Hartford, Home!
A bit hungover, the next morning we walked back to the Hill for breakfast, before walking back through the neighborhood again to the Park Street Station. There John saw me off and I returned to South Station. Under normal conditions, I would there board Amtrak’s Lakeshore Limited Train to reach Springfield. However, the Lakeshore Limited trains are not now operating, and instead Amtrak offered a connecting bus. In another ding against Amtrak, the signage to find the connecting bus in South Station was inadequate. When I finally found a bus, it appeared to belong to some private company whose name I did not recognize. I deduced it was Amtrak by peering at the figures standing out front, and judged that they must be Amtrak employees based on their headwear.
With that said, the Amtrak personnel on the bus were terrific. They passed out snacks and water, and did what they could to make us comfortable. The bus left a few minutes late, but made good time across Massachusetts. The views were, well, the same views you get on any interstate highway in the Northeast. We arrived in Springfield ahead of schedule, despite traffic. For these reasons, I have to give Amtrak’s connecting bus service B tier. Obviously not as good as a train, but Amtrak employees worked hard to make it pleasant. It wasn’t as bad as I expected.
I had a short turnaround in Springfield before I took the Amtrak Hartford Line to Connecticut’s state capital. Union Station (why are so many train stations called “Union Station?”) in Springfield was modern, airy, and had a few amenities available for travellers. There was a helpful map showing places that were walkable nearby, but since I only had a window of about 20-30 minutes before my train left, I just stayed in the station and got a Subway sandwich.
I boarded the Amtrak Hartford Line train and was surprised to see how diminutive it was. One locomotive, two coach cars and that was it! We left right on time, and the train took us down the Connecticut River Valley. The views of the river were very nice and the little towns we passed through were cute. One note: the Windsor Locks station is too far away from the adorable little town of Windsor Locks to be good for TOD, it was just a park and ride. Which, in my opinion, isn’t ideal. Amtrak’s Hartford Line: solid B-tier
The Connecticut River
I stepped off the train in Hartford’s Union Station (another Union Station!), a much older and less well-maintained stop, with only a cramped waiting area for bus and train passengers. I had an hour before I would take a CTRail Hartford Line train down to New Haven, and be on my way home. As I explored around the station, I found the city eerie. There were few pedestrians, those who were out walking about did not seem to be doing well. I was there around 4:30 on a Sunday, and almost every restaurant and store that I passed was closed. What Hartford isn’t lacking is parking lots. All around were huge empty swaths of concrete, silent in the summer sun. Clearly, someone in charge of planning and zoning in Hartford has prioritized accessibility for automobile commuters over the needs of local residents, to the city’s detriment.
Bushnell Park and the State Capitol Building were beautiful, however. I wandered around the park before I had to turn around and catch my train to New Haven. Sadly, the CTRail Hartford Line train comes in last on my tier list. While the train was on time, the views were mediocre. The car itself was a bit dirty; a thin film of dust could be wiped off the windowsill with my finger, and all of the windows were inexplicably fogged up. Even if I wanted to, it was hard to see anything out the window. For this, I have no choice but to put CTRail’s Hartford Line in low C-tier. The line’s saving grace is that newly constructed stations along its route in Berlin, Meriden and elsewhere appear to be nice.
Back at Union Station in New Haven, I was on the final leg of my journey. I had thought about exploring New Haven some more and catching a later train, but I decided to just wait for 20 or so minutes in the station until the next train home. I got a greasy slice of pizza from Sbarro and munched it on the platform before my ride rolled up.
At 6:39 PM I was on my way home! Back down the same New Haven Metro North line that I had started on, I was at this point tired and ready to come home. About 45 minutes later I stepped off the platform in East Norwalk. A five minute walk later (transit-oriented development FTW!) I was back home, greeted by my beautiful wife and adorable cat.
The swing around the circle was a success! Friendships were strengthened, scenic views enjoyed, and infrastructure rated holistically. If there are any major lessons I have to impart to readers, they would be the following:
Transit-Oriented-Recreation offers opportunities to see your community in a new way. Whether it's making new friends or exploring unknown locales, I had the opportunity to see the New England region more intimately than I would have had I stuck to driving the interstates.
Transit-Oriented Development only works if communities lean into it. The difference between my experience in New London and Hartford was marked. One had amenities accessible to the train station, and the other was a ghost town filled with parking lots. Cities and towns across New England should reexamine zoning rules around transit stops to facilitate the economic and cultural benefits that transit can offer.
Savor the journey. As I went along this trip, as I documented the little curiosities I saw with my phone, it made me stop and appreciate the world around me. Walking around train stations, reading the little historical plaques that are set up by local councils, chatting with fellow travelers; it was all incredibly enriching and just plain fun. Taking the time to sip a soda and stare out the window at a salt marsh is restorative. I was often left thinking about Kurt Vonnegut’s old adage: “I urge you to please notice when you are happy, and exclaim or murmur or think at some point, 'If this isn't nice, I don't know what is.’”
Thank you for reading, and I hope this piece has inspired you to explore your community through public transportation!
The final ranking!
Looking forward to talking about this later today, Matt.